Beaches, History, and Bananas
They say of the Exumas “if you can’t sail them, be sure to gaze down when flying overhead.” This cluster of 365 cays (one for each day of the year) is spread over 100-mile expanse of the most breathtakingly beautiful stretch of water in the Bahamas. Only iguanas inhabit most of the cays. The plethora of unnamed beaches and coves excite the sailors and yachtsmen, while the divers relish the crystal, clear and unspoiled water. Even though the Exumas are known as the “Sailing Capital of the World”, be sure to take the time to explore the Islands’ heritage and customs.
Begin with Rolle Town, a town inhabited by 500 people named “Rolle”. This quiet little village grows fruits and vegetables just as they have done for centuries. Relatives of the actress Esther Rolle live here. Next, be sure to visit the Mount Thompson Packing House where island produce is prepared for shipping to Nassau. Visitors are welcome to watch heaps of bright; fragrant bunches of bananas, guavas, pineapples and many others being readied for transport. Maybe you could even convince one of the packers to give you a sample!!
After your taste of the island produce, you’ll be ready for a taste of history. The Hermitage is a reminder of the Islands’ plantation days. Originally built in the 1700’s by the Kelsall family, it is now in ruins. All that is left of this stately plantation is the foundation of the main house and the Hermitage Tombs – 3 members of the Ferguson family of the Carolinas and one unnamed slave. From there, make sure you check out St. Christopher’s Angelican Church, the smallest church in the Exumas, built in 1939 under the tutelage of Father Marshall. A schooner, the Frank A. Maury, became shipwrecked off of Cape Santa Maria, Long Island. It was loaded with timber from the Abacos and when Father Marshall heard of it, he wanted to know if that timber might be salvageable. That timber was used to build the church and all the pews. Frank and Clarence Fitzgerald of The Ferry were the actual builders of this church. The lime they used for mortar was ground from native conch shells; mangrove and tamarind trees; Frank and Clarence also built the kiln used to prepare the lime.
One of the favorite attractions of the Exumas is the Salt Beacon. This famous landmark was designed as a Tuscan Column during the first half of the 19th century. The purpose was to guide ships engaged in the salt trade. The salt was harvested by raking, dried, put into baskets and taken to the more than thirty ships anchored offshore in Williams Town. Armed vessels often protected these salt ships. Elizabeth Harbor is considered the most beautiful harbor in the Isles of the Bahamas. It is a favorite of yachtsmen all over the world. This cove-like harbor provides shelter for the settlement of George Town and has been home to the National Family Island Regatta, held the last week of April for the last 52 years.
